First Principle

Load reduction comes before repair

Most rig failures get worse because the rig is still loaded. A small crack, a loose pin, a broken strand or a slipping fitting can become a mast-down situation if the boat keeps sailing hard while the skipper studies the problem.

If something looks wrong in the rig, reduce load early. Ease sheets, change course, reef, furl, drop sail, heave-to, start the engine if useful, or get the boat onto a calmer heading. The correct action depends on sea room, wind angle, crew, traffic and the damaged part, but the principle is simple: remove force before trying to fix hardware.

Immediate Actions

The first minutes

• Clip on before going forward. A damaged rig can move suddenly.
• Keep people away from loaded wire, flogging sails, sheets, blocks and the boom.
• Ease the sail that is loading the damaged part, but do it in a controlled way.
• Start the engine only when you are sure no line, sailcloth or loose rigging can reach the propeller.
• Make a quick call early if the situation may become dangerous. A rig problem is easier to discuss before the mast is in the water.
• Write down time, position and what failed when the boat is stable enough.

Standing Rigging

Broken or loose shroud

A shroud supports the mast from the side. If one side is damaged, the mast may still stand while the boat is upright, but it can fail when the boat heels or the sail loads on the wrong tack.

Reduce sail immediately. Avoid sailing on the tack that loads the damaged side. If possible, rig a spare halyard, topping lift or strong line from high on the mast to a strong deck point on the damaged side. Tension it carefully. This is not a normal rig repair; it is temporary support to reduce the chance of losing the mast.

Fore And Aft Support

Forestay or backstay trouble

A forestay problem can be hidden inside a furling system. A backstay problem can make the whole mast pump or move forward. Both can become serious quickly.

If the forestay or furler area is suspect, unload the headsail early. A spare jib halyard or spinnaker halyard led forward and tensioned can sometimes act as temporary support. If the backstay is damaged, reduce mainsail load and avoid conditions where the mast is pumping hard. Do not keep sailing fast just because the mast is still standing.

Sail Controls

Stuck furler, torn headsail, broken halyard or boom gear

A stuck furler in rising wind can become a rig problem, not only a sail problem. If the sail cannot be rolled away, reduce load before pulling harder. Change course, blanket the sail with the mainsail if possible, ease sheet tension, and consider dropping the sail if it can be done safely.

If a halyard, reef line, vang, traveller or mainsheet part fails, the safe answer is often to depower and simplify. A spare line, spare block, topping lift, preventer, sheet or strong strop can sometimes replace one job temporarily, but it must be led so it cannot chafe through or pull from a weak point.

If The Mast Comes Down

Protect the crew, hull and propeller

A dismasting is not automatically an abandon-ship situation. Many boats can survive it if the mast, wires and sails do not punch holes in the hull or foul the propeller.

• Account for all crew first.
• Stop the boat as much as practical and keep clear of moving rigging.
• Keep the engine out of gear until every line and wire near the water is understood.
• Protect the hull from the mast and spreaders if they are alongside.
• Cut away only if the rig is threatening the hull, rudder, propeller, crew or rescue. Cutting away is sometimes necessary, but it is final.
• Keep bolt cutters, hacksaw, knife and spare blades where they can be reached in bad conditions.

Communication

When the mast is also the radio antenna

On many sailing boats the main VHF antenna, AIS antenna or shared VHF/AIS antenna is mounted at the masthead. If the mast is damaged or down, normal fixed VHF range and AIS transmit/receive may be lost at the same time as the rig problem.

Do not assume that the fixed radio or AIS is still working just because the display has power. Check antenna status if the radio has an SWR/antenna warning, try a short radio check when appropriate, and be ready to use a handheld VHF, EPIRB, PLB, phone, satellite messenger or other backup. If you have an emergency VHF antenna or a spare antenna lead, it must be stored where it can be reached after a dismasting.

See also DSC and AIS emergency communication and Calling For Help At Sea.

Jury Rig Thinking

What can become a jury rig?

A jury rig is not one fixed recipe. It is whatever simple, low-load arrangement lets the boat make steerage way, keep the bow under control, move away from danger or reach shelter without breaking more gear.

Useful material can include a spinnaker pole, whisker pole, boathook, oar, boom, broken mast section, storm jib, trysail, small headsail, spare sheet, spare halyard, topping lift, preventer, anchor rode, mooring line, webbing strop, blocks, shackles, lashings, hose clamps, sail ties and strong tape. The best material is often the gear that is already strong, already onboard and already familiar.

Examples

Simple jury-rig examples

• Temporary mast support: a spare halyard led to a strong deck fitting can support a weak shroud, forestay or backstay long enough to reduce sail and reach safer water.
• Emergency headsail: a storm jib or small jib can sometimes be set low from a spare halyard or temporary stay, with very little sheet load.
• Pole or boom mast: a spinnaker pole, whisker pole, oar or boom may carry a very small sail when the real mast is gone, but keep it low and lightly loaded.
• Storm sail as control sail: a trysail or deeply reefed main can help keep the bow or stern under control even if it gives little speed.
• Sheet and block reroute: a spare block and long line can replace a broken traveller, vang or sheet lead well enough to depower and steer.
• Motor-sail balance: a tiny sail plus low engine power can steady the boat and reduce rolling, but only after lines and rigging are clear of the propeller.

The important word is small. A jury rig normally fails when the skipper asks it to behave like the original rig. Use low sail area, low speed, gentle helm, reduced course ambition and frequent chafe checks.

After Any Rig Incident

Assume hidden damage until checked

After a rig problem, inspect more than the failed part. Look for bent toggles, cracked terminals, loose split pins, damaged chainplates, deck cracks, mast-step movement, chafed halyards, damaged sheaves, distorted stanchions and wires that have been shock-loaded.

If the boat has been sailed hard with a damaged rig, recheck later. Some problems show themselves only after the boat has been moving for another hour.

SailingKSF Connection

Where the apps can help

The SailingKSF logbook and inventory tools can help document what failed, what temporary repair was made, where spare parts are stored and what must be inspected before the next passage. This is exactly the sort of information that is easy to forget after the stress has passed.